In my forays into the vast fabric wilderness, I have come across so many beautiful textures, sheens, weaves, and weights that I’m finding it difficult to keep up. Batiste, crepe de chine, georgette, and shot silk are dive bombing me from every direction and my head is swirling with natural and synthetic fibers. So, I thought, why not get some organization (and sanity!) and make a detailed fabric type list. Below are the dress fabrics that I find lusciously fabulous (especially the vintage versions!) with their corresponding mugshots. By no means is this list comprehensive, but the stars are definitely all in attendance.
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- Batiste. A lightweight, fine, sometimes sheer fabric in a plain weave. Best for light, skin-skimming lingerie type dresses.
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- Bengaline. A rich fabric with a strong crosswise rib. Fine silk warp and thick cotton weft yarns.
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- Brocade. A rich jacquard weave fabric with all-over intricate patterns and an embroidered look. Mostly silk.
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- Challis. A light, supple, plain weave fabric of wool, rayon, cotton, or blends. Traditionally printed on a dark background with a floral or paisley design.
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- Chiffon. A lightweight, soft, sheer fabric noted for its draping ability. Silk or poly blend.
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- Ciselé Velvet. A satin weave fabric with a velvet pattern on a sheer ground. Appears flocked.
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- Cloqué. A silk-type woven fabric with a blistered or puffy surface. Similar to matelassé.
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- Crepe de Chine. A lightweight plain weave silk using fine twisted yarns for a muted sheen.
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- Faille. A closely woven fabric made from silk, cotton, wool, or synthetic fibers with a fine, flat crosswise rib.
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- Georgette. A fabric made from crepe yarns and, thus, has a matte texture. Similar to, but heavier than chiffon.
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- Honan. A fine, crisp, plain-weave wild silk fabric with a slight slub in both directions. It is often dyed. Synonymous with pongee.
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- Ikat. A fabric in which warp threads of fabric have been dyed or printed and woven to give a shadowy effect. It is formerly known as chine (Chinese procedure). Kindly from: decorativethings.com
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- Jacquard. an intricately patterned weave or knit with a raised surface. Similar to brocade.
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- Lamé. A woven or knitted fabric with a metallic yarn to give wither the pattern or background a glittery effect.
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- Matelassé. A luxurious, often jacquard weave, fabric with a raised design that often gives a puckered effect. Sometimes woven through with metallic thread.
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- Moiré. A silky fabric like taffeta or faille processed through heated rollers to produce a watery surface effect. Also known as ‘watered silk’.
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- Organza. A sheer, crisp silk organdy with a sheen. Best used for flouncy, poufy party dresses.
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- Peau de Soie. A heavy, smooth, satin weave fabric with a muted sheen. It is a french term meaning ‘skin of silk’.
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- Piqué. A cotton fabric woven with small, raised geometric patterns on a loom with a dobby attachment.
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- Poplin. A tightly woven, hard-wearing cotton fabric with a fine horizontal rib. Works very well for summer dresses.
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- Shantung. A plain weave fabric with slubs in the weft yarns producing a slightly rough, nubbed surface. Usually made of silk.
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- Taffeta. A crisp, plain weave silk fabric with a shiny surface and a lot of scoop or rustle.
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- Tarlatan. A transparent, loosely woven, open mesh, cotton cheesecloth fabric that has been given a dressing to stiffen it. Most used layer upon layer for crinolines or theatrical costumes.
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- Tulle. A fine net of silk or nylon. Most used for crinolines, tutus, and bridal/formal dresses, especially those dating from the 1950s.
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- Voile. A lightweight, plain weave, crisp, sheer cotton fabric. Best for formal summer dresses.
Ikat image kindly from: decorativethings.com
With so many luxurious fabrics out there, how can you not just want to roll around in them before you sew them into fabulous frocks? ;)
Enjoy your Monday!
xoxo
*definitions modified from ‘New Complete Guide to Sewing’ by Reader’s Digest.
